The longer you stay, the longer you want to stay...
I’m going to give it to you straight. Don't visit Marfa
with any expectations (high or low), because each person experiences
Marfa in their own, unique way. It's hard enough to define what "Marfa" is, so it doesn’t deserve to be defined based on existing expectations. I'm telling you this based on my own personal experience. Those who set high expectations might be disappointed, and those
who set low expectations might be surprised. Because Marfa is unlike anywhere else.
It’s a strange mix of upscale and casual, cool and weird, flamboyant and hidden, artsy and shabby, unique and familiar, clean and dirty, crowded and vacant, expensive and cheap. You’ll walk into expensive boutiques with dirt all over your boots and pants. You’ll eat at little cash-only food spots and pay big city prices for cocktails. You’ll sleep outside in a teepee and use the “outhouse,” but then dress stylish when you head to happy hour. You’ll walk around the deserty middle-of-nowhere to view minimalist art installations. There's a small border patrol checkpoint a couple miles down the road from El Cosmico, even though it's an hour from the Mexican border.
Like I said, you won’t find another place like Marfa.
It’s a strange mix of upscale and casual, cool and weird, flamboyant and hidden, artsy and shabby, unique and familiar, clean and dirty, crowded and vacant, expensive and cheap. You’ll walk into expensive boutiques with dirt all over your boots and pants. You’ll eat at little cash-only food spots and pay big city prices for cocktails. You’ll sleep outside in a teepee and use the “outhouse,” but then dress stylish when you head to happy hour. You’ll walk around the deserty middle-of-nowhere to view minimalist art installations. There's a small border patrol checkpoint a couple miles down the road from El Cosmico, even though it's an hour from the Mexican border.
Like I said, you won’t find another place like Marfa.
We took our first trip to Marfa the week before Spring Break (to stay there as the main attraction, not just visit while passing
through). I originally went to Marfa without any expectations at all, because I
honestly did not know what to expect. I had only heard of Marfa a few times
before we decided to go, and never gave it much thought to why people would want
to go there. Even a local told me that most people who come to Marfa have no clue what to do when they get here - they just come and figure it out as they go. But because I'm a "planner," some expectations (or ideals and assumptions) were made only after seeing photos online while
doing research on “things to do” and “where to eat” to plan our itinerary. While doing my research, part of me wondered if I should even make an
itinerary, because it seemed like a place that didn’t have much to do. As I
looked through photos on travel blogs and Instagram, here were my first
impressions of Marfa:
- Everyone
who visits Marfa is either a hipster, hippie, or super stylish. Great, now
I need to go buy new trendy outfits to pack.
- Celebrities
visit this place, so it must be worthwhile to visit. Anthony Bourdain, Beyonce,
Matthew McConaughey, etc.
- Marfa
= Marfa Lights, Prada Marfa, and El Cosmico. Is there anything else to do
in Marfa?
- Small,
deserty “West Texas” town in the middle of nowhere. This is gonna be
interesting..
- How
long does it take to drive there again??
All of these impressions hold some truth, but they are only a
small part of the big picture to what Marfa really is. Keep in mind that any photos you see online (including my own photos below) can be edited and enhanced to make anything seem more glamorous and beautiful than its reality. And my experience may
be totally different than others. The important thing to remember is to accept
Marfa for what it is, and all the experiences that come with it. You'll fall in love with the uniqueness of Marfa if you do just that.
Here is my Marfa guide for first time visitors with an itinerary and tips:
Traveling to Marfa
The Drive - From where I live in Denton, it was a 7.5 hour drive (one way) to get to Marfa, including rest stops. Music. Podcasts. Audiobooks. Car games. You name it. Those from out of state are amazed that you can even drive for 10 hours and still be in the same state. Welcome to Texas!
Gas - If possible, fill up your car before you get near
Midland, where the gas can be almost 50 cents more per gallon.
Midland/Odessa area has some of the most expensive gas I’ve seen in Texas. If you
do get gas in Midland, just be aware that the gas station may charge $151 to
your card when initially getting gas, so don’t freak out like I did when I saw a
notification on my phone of this charge and thought our card had been hacked. Most
gas stations charge $1.00 as a temporary preauthorization to make sure the
credit card company gives you the ‘green light’ to make the full charge to the
card. For some reason, Midland charges $151 temporarily, but will refund you as
soon as your card is authorized to pay for your gas. However, once you get a few hours out from reaching Marfa or approaching Midland, make sure
you do have plenty of gas because you may not see another gas station for many miles.
Cell signal "dead zones" – Losing service is a real thing when you drive out
to West Texas and in the middle of nowhere. AT&T seemed to have the best
signal and only a few major drop zones, but it was still spotty here and there (even in Marfa). Be sure to pack an actual GPS or a print out a map of the area, just in case you need to use it while in a dead zone.
Speeding – Road trips can be fun and all, but most people just want
to get to their destination ASAP… especially when there’s nothing exciting to look
at for several hours. However, even in the middle of nowhere, speed
traps are everywhere. 80 mph
roads turn to 70 to 55 to 35 - just like that. Speed limits may be as low as 25 mph in small towns, so don’t try to get away with “just a few over.”
When to visit – We visited Marfa the week before Spring Break began. However, Spring Break is “opening season”
for some of the local businesses that you don’t want to miss
experiencing, including Planet Marfa. It wasn’t until the last
couple days of our trip that we got to experience more of Marfa, as businesses began to open their doors. Spring
Break weeks will also be some of the most crowded times to visit... hence more
expensive lodging, harder to get reservations, longer waiting lines, harder to
park… you catch my drift. Next time we go to Marfa, we will shoot for early April. Now, let's talk about the weather. Marfa typically has moderate temperatures (60s-80s during the day, 40s-50s at night) during the month of March. The interesting thing about "desert" climates is that temperatures can dramatically drop at night, so pack a jacket or sweater. I’ve
also heard that the desert blooms nicely in mid-Spring. The only downside to visiting in the Spring is that it is more likely to rain (who's surprised?). While the rain doesn’t put as much of a damper on your Marfa activities like it would if you
were on a beach vacation, it can still alter or halt some of your plans. We
actually planned our trip around the New Moon (no moon in the sky) so the stars
would be at their absolute brightest. Marfa is far away from big city “light
pollution,” meaning that the sky is darker and the stars are brighter. However,
it was cloudy a few of the days we were there so we had to cancel our Star
Party reservation at the McDonald Observatory in Fort Davis. We were very disappointed, but know we will be back and cannot miss out on that kind of star-viewing
experience.
Things to Do in Marfa
We recommend spending at least 4 nights in Marfa (or surrounding towns) to get the most out of your long road trip. If you stay in Marfa all 4+ nights like we did, there are a few short day trips to surrounding areas and sights that are worth exploring.
Prada Marfa - This art installation and famous photo op is a 30-minute drive from Marfa. The "store" faces East and is on the left side of the highway. When you visit this art installation, make sure not to park near or in front of the store - the windows are reflective and you don't want your car to show in pictures. The best time to go is earlier in the morning when the sun is up for optimal lighting and less people may be there trying to take photos. We went around 4:30pm so the sun was already behind the store, making it almost too dark for a good photo. And this is my husband doing his creative "photo op" by pretending to be a beggar.... he makes me laugh.
Alpine - This town is about 30 minutes East of Marfa and you may pass through it on your way to Marfa, depending on which route you take. Sul Ross University is located here, and
you better believe their small town cops are ready to catch you at one of the many speed traps. Just behind Sul Ross University is “The Desk” attraction – it's literally a
desk that is on top of one of the big hills that you have to take a hike to see. It’s
about a 30 minute to 1 hour hike, and it’s NOT easy to find this desk with it's beautiful
view. If you decide you want to take the adventure
to find this desk, do not follow the instructions you read online – there are
various versions of directions and most of them are not helpful. (Although I did leave a review on Trip Advisor with "accurate directions," I do mention that it's best if you get the official map provided by the university instead of following online directions). When we got to the hill, we followed one of the online directions we previously read... and got lost. Thankfully, we came across some people who had the "official" map, which they received at the university. This map had much better instructions, so we just followed the group to find the desk. Even with
their map, it was still a little difficult to find. There are many “forks in
the road” that if you aren’t prepared to hike for awhile, you will regret your
decision to take the adventure and give up before you find it. To say the least, it is an actual hike, and you should pack water and wear hiking shoes. Don't do what I did and think you can get away with wearing regular "stylish" boots, jeans and a cute jacket since you read "easy 30 minute hike." Don't be fooled like I was. But I gotta say, it was worth it once we finally found the desk. Be sure to sign the desk when you arrive!
You can also find Big Bend Brewing Company in Alpine. I didn't say visit. We've had their beer at restaurants before and wanted to visit their official taproom. But despite what their website, social media, and Google listings showed... apparently they had “temporarily suspended operations” at the time, so we weren’t able to visit the brewery. There wasn't even a sign on the front door of the brewery’s tasting room letting people know they were closed! We were very disappointed, to say the least.
You can also find Big Bend Brewing Company in Alpine. I didn't say visit. We've had their beer at restaurants before and wanted to visit their official taproom. But despite what their website, social media, and Google listings showed... apparently they had “temporarily suspended operations” at the time, so we weren’t able to visit the brewery. There wasn't even a sign on the front door of the brewery’s tasting room letting people know they were closed! We were very disappointed, to say the least.
Fort Davis - Marfa, Fort Davis, and Alpine make a little "triangle" on the map, so it's about the same distance to get to Alpine from Fort Davis as it is to get to Marfa. Fort Davis is about 30 minutes North from Marfa and is a quaint, tiny little town with restaurants and shops that are only open at specific hours on specific days. We didn’t get to experience any of their local businesses while we passed through a couple different times. However, Fort Davis is where Davis Mountains State Park and the McDonald Observatory is located. These are places you don’t want to miss! If you’re into hiking, Davis Mountains State Park has a few easy to moderate trails with vast, scenic views. If you’re not into hiking, there are multiple “scenic outlook” spots you can drive to and picnic tables you can eat at to enjoy the views.
There is also a very cool adobe-style rustic lodge called Indian Lodge that you can visit, eat at, or even book a night to stay.
The McDonald Observatory is further around the mountains in Fort Davis, but if it’s going to be a clear night, you won’t want to miss their spectacular programs - especially a star party. Depending on when you visit, you may need to book your star party weeks in advance. If the forecast shows it to be a cloudy or rainy night, you can always call to reschedule your star party at least a few hours before your reservation. Due to a cloudy forecast, we had to reschedule the star party to the following night, but the next night came and it was still cloudy, so they gave us a refund. Hopefully soon, we will be able to come back to experience a star party!
Big Bend National Park - This park is about 2 hours South from Marfa (not including any driving time within the park itself). In my opinion, Big Bend is a separate trip you should take, or you can add on a few extra days to your vacation to spend that time in the park. The last time we visited Big Bend in April 2017, we spent 4 nights camping in Big Bend and it was a good amount of time to see almost everything. Quick tip - generators are not allowed to be on after 8pm to 8am due to "quiet times," so it's best to go camping in Big Bend anytime early Spring or late Fall for coolers days and nights (when you don't need the camper's A/C or a fan to cool you off). After April, it's basically the dead of summer in this desert climate. There are also limited options of indoor lodging and cabins at the park you can consider booking in advance. But if you’re not from Texas or a surrounding state, it may be worth taking a day trip to visit the park. Big Bend has a lot to see. It’s a massive park that takes you a couple hours just to drive through the whole thing. There are multiple scenic drives and extensive hikes, a very safe and quaint little Mexican village across the border called Boquillas (bring your passport) that you can pay a small fee to ride a donkey to the village, a natural hot spring, camping and lodging, and a unique town just outside the West side of the park called Terlingua. The stars are unbelievable here, as it is the darkest area of Texas due to the least amount of light pollution from the nearest city. You may even get to see the milky way at night!
Marathon - This is about an hour drive from Marfa, but you should stop through
this cute town if you decide to take a day trip to Big Bend. Like Marfa, this
town hosts several popular events throughout the year and has beautiful places
to stay, eat and shop. I have never been here, but my husband has and said it's a nice place to visit and would consider staying a night at one of their beautiful hotels the next time we visit this area.
El Cosmico - This place attracts the hippies, hipsters, and anyone who is looking for a super unique place to stay. It's a "glamping" campground where you can rent teepees, yurts, safari tents, vintage campers, or even first-come-first-serve camping spots with your own supplies. We stayed in a teepee and it was awesome. Each one comes with a fire pit and heated mattress pads (might be seasonal). Teepees, yurts and safari tents do not come with a key because you can't lock them, so be sure to take your stuff with you each time you leave the campground.
El Cosmico provides bath towels, but that's about it. Bring your own toiletries and bath supplies. Pack sandals for the shower. Bathrooms and showers located at the entrance are not totally "private," as they are mere structures covered with tarp - but not covered enough to keep you from being seen by those walking by. There are more "private" bathrooms and showers on the other side of the campground, and there are also a couple bathrooms inside the building by the lobby.
El Cosmico is a fun place to stay. It has a couple stages for music events, shopping inside the lobby, a hammocking area, and Dutch hot tubs you can rent for the night. Renting a hot tub will add to your unique experience at El Cosmico, but be forewarned - there is a sign that says "bathe at your own risk" and "clothes are optional." What does this mean? It means you may scorch your skin off if you jump in the hot tub without caution, and you be accompanied by free-spirited groups of people tubbing in the nude. Thankfully we didn't have to experience either one. The Dutch tubs are not temperature regulated as they are heated with a wood fire, so you will need to take the tub cover off and ask the lobby to add at least 4 bags of ice to your tub to let it cool off before you get in. My advice is to let it cool for at least 30 minutes once the ice has been added. There are 3 available hot tubs for rent, but the tubs are located right next to the building and patio lights, so it's not optimal for seeing the stars above. You will have your tub all to yourself, but since there are 2 other rentable tubs next to you in the same area, they may be occupied when you decide to head over there to take a dip. If you don't want to spend the money to rent out a Dutch hot tub, there is a nice pool and hot tub at Bar Nadar next to Hotel Saint George that is open to the public for free at certain hours.
El Cosmico has free coffee in the morning and they provide a fantastic, updated list of recommended places to eat and things to do in Marfa. We based a good portion of our itinerary from this recommended list. It was helpful to see the hours/days each place was open and which places were cash-only. Even if you don't stay at El Cosmico, I would stop by to "shop around" the lobby and see if you can take one of these free sheets at the front desk.
Hotel Saint George and Hotel Paisano - We didn't stay at either one of these hotels due to our budget for all 4 nights we stayed in Marfa, and we wanted to get the El Cosmico experience for the first 2 nights (which our teepee wasn't that much cheaper than a hotel, but worth the experience). But we decided to visit these hotels for happy hour drinks and as soon as we did, we knew we wanted to stay there the next time we visited Marfa. Hotel Saint George looks like a concrete box with windows on the exterior, but it's nicely modern and stylish on the inside. I guess they're going for that minimalist look. Hotel Saint George has a great happy hour in their restaurant/bar area. Bar Nadar (a beautiful, secluded pool area with a patio bar) is also offered complimentary to guests at this hotel.
Hotel Paisano is beautiful inside-out. This historic hotel is unique and well-styled with character, history, and classic flare. The restaurant inside this hotel also has a good happy hour menu and a relaxing courtyard patio to enjoy your drinks. Here are a few photos of Hotel Paisano:
Almost everything we ate in Marfa was fantastic. Some things were basic. Some things were not as good as we expected. But hear me out - the absolute last thing I want to do is dog on any of Marfa's small, local businesses. My heart is full for them. But from our own personal preferences, the only place that we found to be a tad disappointing was Marfa Burritos. Please don't hate me, locals!
Marfa Burritos - Famous people have eaten here and have recommended this place, and it's highly recommended from the locals. I am in no way saying it was bad - I just didn't think it was as good as all the hype. (See, that's the problem with setting expectations!) You should still definitely try it out for yourself. However, I recommend getting one of her more expensive burritos ($6.50) with all the fixings included. There are only about 5 or 6 different burritos to choose from on the menu. I ordered the chorizo and egg burrito, and my husband ordered the bean and cheese burrito. Neither were as great as we expected them to be. However, I am convinced that I would have liked it better if I had ordered the "prime" burritos with all the fixings, because my burrito was pretty bland. I guess I'm just used to the the more flavorful, street breakfast tacos with all the "goods" inside - cheese, bacon, salsa, etc. I love that she makes her burritos with homemade tortillas, but the tortillas were falling apart while trying to eat our burritos. But you should check it out at least once for breakfast! Cash only. Free coffee. Cool backyard seating to eat your burritos at.
Stellina - This place is popular among locals. It's a tapas-style menu with a great wine menu. There are limited places to sit at a table, but there is also seating around the "bar" for communal seating. We had amazing prime rib eye steak with green beans and mashed potatoes to split between two of us. Several people also seemed to order the stuffed eggplant, which looked pretty good even for non-vegetarians like us. Unfortunately, I didn't get a picture of the food before we devoured it. So here's a cute flower I saw at the restaurant instead:
Convenience West BBQ - This bbq joint is popular among locals and the food is "open 'til sell out" which can happen quickly. The prices are great for what you get. I've had BBQ all across Texas so I can't say this was my favorite I've ever had (Franklin's BBQ in Austin has ruined me forever), but it sure was delicious. We ordered the brisket and ribs plates, and for the sides we chose sweet potato salad, pesto/verde mac (not mac and cheese), and pinto beans. I would recommend getting a brisket sandwich the next time I visit - the bread looked homemade! They have indoor and outdoor seating.
Cochineal - This is a sleek and stylish restaurant with spacious patio seating and nice indoor seating. I recommend getting a reservation here - unless you go right when they open at 5pm, then you might be able to get a table outside. Most indoor seating may already be reserved. This is another tapas-style restaurant with a nice drink menu. We ordered some homemade mushroom pasta, a fresh salad with blood oranges and citrus vinaigrette, and homemade bread with tuscan olive oil and creamy butter. Delicious!
Al Campo - I know it seems like there are a lot of "tapas" places to eat in Marfa. Maybe that's because there is, or maybe we just ordered tapas-style everywhere we went so we could try multiple different food options. We're foodies, what can I say? Al Campo is a "wine garden" that offers cheese boards, Tex-Mex, and other unique options for ordering multiple plates. And of course, they have an extensive wine list. Since we were already craving Tex-Mex, we ordered the queso, pork tacos, and Jarritos. We didn't get wine because we had already been drinking beer at Planet Marfa beforehand.
Planet Marfa - What a cool place. After chatting it up with a local (born and raised in Marfa), we discovered that we came to Marfa right in the nick of time. Planet Marfa is an awesome beer garden / bar patio area that's apparently only open from Spring Break until Thanksgiving. The bar has an "underground" teepee, cool seating areas including a small balcony patio at the top of the bar and a non-functioning school bus, ping pong, and delicious bar nachos.
Food Shark - Go here for lunch. It's a cash-only food truck that serves delicious Mediterranean cuisine. We ordered the lamb gyro plate with hummus and pita chips. I'm kind of mad we split this one because I could have easily eaten the whole thing by myself. Once you order your food and beer, you can sit at one of the many unique seating areas, including a dine-in school bus.
Aster - We went here for weekend brunch. It's a popular little cafe, but the food is just like any other brunch place if you ask me. We do love our brunch! We ordered steel cut oats with caramelized bananas, Eggs Benedict, and french press coffee. There is basic seating inside the small cafe, but we sat at one of the tables outside in the courtyard entrance.
Frama Coffee - Frama is connected to the Tumbleweed Laundry Mat. You can get just about any type of espresso drink you might normally order at a regular coffee shop, like an iced dirty chai or vanilla latte. There is also a cool Marfa wall mural photo op here.
Keep in mind that because it is a small town, businesses may come and go, menus and hours of operation may change, service may be slower, and not all places are open throughout the week. If you're in a rush to eat or nothing seems to be open at the time you get hungry, there is always a Subway, DQ, Stripes convenience store, and Porters market that are available options to satisfying your hunger.
Hope you found this Marfa 101 for First Time Visitors - Itinerary and Tips guide helpful. Share this with your friends who are considering a road trip!
Enjoy your own, unique experience of Marfa!
Where to Stay in Marfa
El Cosmico - This place attracts the hippies, hipsters, and anyone who is looking for a super unique place to stay. It's a "glamping" campground where you can rent teepees, yurts, safari tents, vintage campers, or even first-come-first-serve camping spots with your own supplies. We stayed in a teepee and it was awesome. Each one comes with a fire pit and heated mattress pads (might be seasonal). Teepees, yurts and safari tents do not come with a key because you can't lock them, so be sure to take your stuff with you each time you leave the campground.
El Cosmico provides bath towels, but that's about it. Bring your own toiletries and bath supplies. Pack sandals for the shower. Bathrooms and showers located at the entrance are not totally "private," as they are mere structures covered with tarp - but not covered enough to keep you from being seen by those walking by. There are more "private" bathrooms and showers on the other side of the campground, and there are also a couple bathrooms inside the building by the lobby.
El Cosmico is a fun place to stay. It has a couple stages for music events, shopping inside the lobby, a hammocking area, and Dutch hot tubs you can rent for the night. Renting a hot tub will add to your unique experience at El Cosmico, but be forewarned - there is a sign that says "bathe at your own risk" and "clothes are optional." What does this mean? It means you may scorch your skin off if you jump in the hot tub without caution, and you be accompanied by free-spirited groups of people tubbing in the nude. Thankfully we didn't have to experience either one. The Dutch tubs are not temperature regulated as they are heated with a wood fire, so you will need to take the tub cover off and ask the lobby to add at least 4 bags of ice to your tub to let it cool off before you get in. My advice is to let it cool for at least 30 minutes once the ice has been added. There are 3 available hot tubs for rent, but the tubs are located right next to the building and patio lights, so it's not optimal for seeing the stars above. You will have your tub all to yourself, but since there are 2 other rentable tubs next to you in the same area, they may be occupied when you decide to head over there to take a dip. If you don't want to spend the money to rent out a Dutch hot tub, there is a nice pool and hot tub at Bar Nadar next to Hotel Saint George that is open to the public for free at certain hours.
El Cosmico has free coffee in the morning and they provide a fantastic, updated list of recommended places to eat and things to do in Marfa. We based a good portion of our itinerary from this recommended list. It was helpful to see the hours/days each place was open and which places were cash-only. Even if you don't stay at El Cosmico, I would stop by to "shop around" the lobby and see if you can take one of these free sheets at the front desk.
Hotel Saint George and Hotel Paisano - We didn't stay at either one of these hotels due to our budget for all 4 nights we stayed in Marfa, and we wanted to get the El Cosmico experience for the first 2 nights (which our teepee wasn't that much cheaper than a hotel, but worth the experience). But we decided to visit these hotels for happy hour drinks and as soon as we did, we knew we wanted to stay there the next time we visited Marfa. Hotel Saint George looks like a concrete box with windows on the exterior, but it's nicely modern and stylish on the inside. I guess they're going for that minimalist look. Hotel Saint George has a great happy hour in their restaurant/bar area. Bar Nadar (a beautiful, secluded pool area with a patio bar) is also offered complimentary to guests at this hotel.
Hotel Paisano is beautiful inside-out. This historic hotel is unique and well-styled with character, history, and classic flare. The restaurant inside this hotel also has a good happy hour menu and a relaxing courtyard patio to enjoy your drinks. Here are a few photos of Hotel Paisano:
Marfa Restaurants and Bars
Almost everything we ate in Marfa was fantastic. Some things were basic. Some things were not as good as we expected. But hear me out - the absolute last thing I want to do is dog on any of Marfa's small, local businesses. My heart is full for them. But from our own personal preferences, the only place that we found to be a tad disappointing was Marfa Burritos. Please don't hate me, locals!
Marfa Burritos - Famous people have eaten here and have recommended this place, and it's highly recommended from the locals. I am in no way saying it was bad - I just didn't think it was as good as all the hype. (See, that's the problem with setting expectations!) You should still definitely try it out for yourself. However, I recommend getting one of her more expensive burritos ($6.50) with all the fixings included. There are only about 5 or 6 different burritos to choose from on the menu. I ordered the chorizo and egg burrito, and my husband ordered the bean and cheese burrito. Neither were as great as we expected them to be. However, I am convinced that I would have liked it better if I had ordered the "prime" burritos with all the fixings, because my burrito was pretty bland. I guess I'm just used to the the more flavorful, street breakfast tacos with all the "goods" inside - cheese, bacon, salsa, etc. I love that she makes her burritos with homemade tortillas, but the tortillas were falling apart while trying to eat our burritos. But you should check it out at least once for breakfast! Cash only. Free coffee. Cool backyard seating to eat your burritos at.
Stellina - This place is popular among locals. It's a tapas-style menu with a great wine menu. There are limited places to sit at a table, but there is also seating around the "bar" for communal seating. We had amazing prime rib eye steak with green beans and mashed potatoes to split between two of us. Several people also seemed to order the stuffed eggplant, which looked pretty good even for non-vegetarians like us. Unfortunately, I didn't get a picture of the food before we devoured it. So here's a cute flower I saw at the restaurant instead:
Convenience West BBQ - This bbq joint is popular among locals and the food is "open 'til sell out" which can happen quickly. The prices are great for what you get. I've had BBQ all across Texas so I can't say this was my favorite I've ever had (Franklin's BBQ in Austin has ruined me forever), but it sure was delicious. We ordered the brisket and ribs plates, and for the sides we chose sweet potato salad, pesto/verde mac (not mac and cheese), and pinto beans. I would recommend getting a brisket sandwich the next time I visit - the bread looked homemade! They have indoor and outdoor seating.
Cochineal - This is a sleek and stylish restaurant with spacious patio seating and nice indoor seating. I recommend getting a reservation here - unless you go right when they open at 5pm, then you might be able to get a table outside. Most indoor seating may already be reserved. This is another tapas-style restaurant with a nice drink menu. We ordered some homemade mushroom pasta, a fresh salad with blood oranges and citrus vinaigrette, and homemade bread with tuscan olive oil and creamy butter. Delicious!
Al Campo - I know it seems like there are a lot of "tapas" places to eat in Marfa. Maybe that's because there is, or maybe we just ordered tapas-style everywhere we went so we could try multiple different food options. We're foodies, what can I say? Al Campo is a "wine garden" that offers cheese boards, Tex-Mex, and other unique options for ordering multiple plates. And of course, they have an extensive wine list. Since we were already craving Tex-Mex, we ordered the queso, pork tacos, and Jarritos. We didn't get wine because we had already been drinking beer at Planet Marfa beforehand.
Planet Marfa - What a cool place. After chatting it up with a local (born and raised in Marfa), we discovered that we came to Marfa right in the nick of time. Planet Marfa is an awesome beer garden / bar patio area that's apparently only open from Spring Break until Thanksgiving. The bar has an "underground" teepee, cool seating areas including a small balcony patio at the top of the bar and a non-functioning school bus, ping pong, and delicious bar nachos.
Food Shark - Go here for lunch. It's a cash-only food truck that serves delicious Mediterranean cuisine. We ordered the lamb gyro plate with hummus and pita chips. I'm kind of mad we split this one because I could have easily eaten the whole thing by myself. Once you order your food and beer, you can sit at one of the many unique seating areas, including a dine-in school bus.
Aster - We went here for weekend brunch. It's a popular little cafe, but the food is just like any other brunch place if you ask me. We do love our brunch! We ordered steel cut oats with caramelized bananas, Eggs Benedict, and french press coffee. There is basic seating inside the small cafe, but we sat at one of the tables outside in the courtyard entrance.
Frama Coffee - Frama is connected to the Tumbleweed Laundry Mat. You can get just about any type of espresso drink you might normally order at a regular coffee shop, like an iced dirty chai or vanilla latte. There is also a cool Marfa wall mural photo op here.
Keep in mind that because it is a small town, businesses may come and go, menus and hours of operation may change, service may be slower, and not all places are open throughout the week. If you're in a rush to eat or nothing seems to be open at the time you get hungry, there is always a Subway, DQ, Stripes convenience store, and Porters market that are available options to satisfying your hunger.
Hope you found this Marfa 101 for First Time Visitors - Itinerary and Tips guide helpful. Share this with your friends who are considering a road trip!
Enjoy your own, unique experience of Marfa!